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Natural Lawn Care – Get your garden drug

31 Jul

Natural Lawn Care – Get the lawn of drugs! For KnightGreenTerraFirma Bruce. com Its soil How does your garden green, basic lawn care to start with your land. If you have not had soil samples taken within the past five years, this is where to start. Many local garden centers carry soil kits. Do-It “will provide a minimum of information. You really have to send the soil sample to a laboratory for organic analysis. Organic analysis tell you exactly how much each “correction” to add the land to bring it at par. “Normal” analysis of the soil generally include only the PH levels and 3 levels of nutrients can be corrected with fertilizers – nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium. Ideally, you should take your sample soil in the spring. Soil pH Most of the herbs as pH 6. 5, which is slightly acidic. PH 7. 0 is neutral. Dandelion, secondly, because the soil with a pH = 7. 5, slightly alkaline. Thus, the proper pH level will support the growth of grass and at the same time slow the growth of dandelions. Dolomite lime is used to increase the alkalinity of soils where magnesium and calcium are also needed. Lime increases alkalinity of lime in the soil high enough magnesium. Flowers of sulfur is used to increase soil acidity. Organic Fertilizer Fertilizers lists the percentage of nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium in the bag as 7-7-7. Soils also requires other macro-nutrients, including sulfur, calcium, magnesium and trace elements as iron, boron and zinc. Organic sources of nitrogen: Rapeseed meal (6-2-1) to 5 kilograms/10 m² (10lb/100 square feet). It lasts for 5 months. Fish meal: (10. 5-6-0) max 2. 5 kg/10 sq mtrs (5lb/100 square feet). Lasts 6-8 months. Blood meal: (12. 5-1-3) at 1. 5kg/10 sq mtrs (3lb/100 square feet). It lasts four months. Sources of organic phosphorus: Bone meal (3-20-0), and 20-30% calcium. Max 2. 5 kg/10 sq mtrs (5lb/100 square feet). It lasts longer than 12 months. SingleSuperPhosphate: (0-20-0), plus 20% calcium and 12% sulfur. Max 2. 5kg/10 sq mtrs (5lb/100 square feet). Begins releasing in 2-3 months. Organic sources of potassium: Kelp meal (1-0-1. 2) plus 33% minerals. Max 0. 5kg/10 sq mtrs (1lb/100 square feet). Lasts 6-12 months. Wood ash (0-0-1 on 0-0-10) raises PH levels, too. Max 1 kg/10 sq mtrs (2lb/100 square feet). It lasts longer than 12 months. Compost – is an old black magic All soils benefit from the use of nutrient-rich compost at any time. Compost of decaying organic matter all the best air conditioning around the earth. This improves drainage, provides nutrients for plants and provides a useful microorganisms. Aply any time of year and often. Irrigation Most people water lawns too. Lawns need about an inch or water per week. If you have not received enough rain last week are inches, then you can add your own rain barrels rain. Deep watering is much better than spray. Soak the soil once a week will promote deep root growth that can better withstand periods of drought. Water early in the morning before you get to heat and evaporate the water. Do not water at night, as it leaves the grass wet at night, you can cause disease. Court Do not mow shorter than 3 inches. Mayor crowd grass and weeds better withstand pest attacks. Leave a nitrogen-rich grass clippings on the lawn to feed. Aeration One of the main causes of weed problems is to compact the soil. Compacted soil stresses and kills the roots of grasses, allowing weeds to come and take their place. Aeration of the soil allows oxygen to penetrate and restore proper drainage. Most lawns should be aerated at least twice a year, once in early spring and once in autumn. After airing in the spring, high dress with compost and grass seed screen resistant to pests. Immediately after aeration in the autumn, apply organic fertilizers as needed. In the mid-season aeration is recommended for lawns with heavy straw. Using the fan, resulting in traffic jams land in the grass. By removing some of the soil that is sure to air and water on the ground. aerators, which is the use of “spikes” to make the holes to collect more reason, and can quickly fill the holes back in. De-thatch Thatch is a dense layer of dead grass stems and roots on the surface of compacted soil. They are resistant to decay. A thick layer of straw, as a rule, so that water soaks into the ground. Thatch, thicker than an inch encourages insects and diseases. Straw, in the fall. If you find that in the spring, which is a thick layer of straw, the air and wait for the fall. De-ceilings create stress for your lawn. This will help if you add a layer of mulch later. Insects Ants Ants are attracted to the nutrient poor, dry soils with low organic matter content. Typically, an increase of organic matter in soil compost mulch, the soil retains more moisture and ant problem will take care of themselves. You can use sand, borax, or bonemeal on the mound, as well. Cinch Bugs Cinch bugs as a heap of straw, dry grass and roots, soil low in nitrogen. Aeration in the spring and summer and straw in the fall. If you have a horde of bugs and fixes kill your lawn, put a capful of dish soap in the shower full of water and soak the problem area. Then place a sheet of white flannel on the area of concern. Bed bugs clinging to the shirt while trying to escape the soap. After 15-20 minutes, vacuum flannel or wash in a bucket of insecticidal soap. Sounds crazy, but it works. Grass moth moth If you notice a small white moth throwing around, you probably lawn caterpillars. Best of enrichment and top-dress with endophytic grass and straw in the fall. If you need more help than this, you can try introducing beneficial nematodes as a “natural” management. White larvae These worms are soft and white, C-shaped body they can be a quarter inch to three inches long. And they can cause staining of your lawn turn brown and die. The best protection are thick healthy lawn. De-thatch, aerate and maintain the minimum surface moisture deep watering infrequently. Milky Spore disease – a natural bacteria that the fight against the larvae of many years, and once established on their territory. You can also try introducing beneficial nematodes. Beneficial nematodes beneficial nematodes in a natural way to effectively control the larval stage (larvae) of the Common Chafer, European Chafer, Japanese Beetle, Asiatic Garden Beetle, Black Vine Weevil, strawberry root weevil, and in May and June beetles. They are a safe and sensible way to reduce the contamination of white larvae and other insect pests without damaging the lawn or beneficial insects. How to apply: as a rule, only add water and spray on the lawn. Follow the instructions in the service provider. Package of 50 million nematodes will cover 2500 square meters or 250 square meters. Weeds Most weed problems can be attributed to poor soil conditions. Take care of the land and also to be taken after a week. Aeration, de-thatch, check pH, add compost. Gerbil This is an annual plant sends roots stems quickly become entangled in acidic soils and moist. Check and adjust the pH acidity. Hand pull the weeds and the problem will disappear soon. Clover All clubs are very useful for the lawn. Fix nitrogen in the soil, and is often planted as “green manure”. Clovers attract insects that feed on nectar favor. Think twice before you decide to eradicate this weed. “If you decide to get rid of the clover, to prepare a solution of 1 part vinegar and 1 part liquid fertilizer (fish fertilizer is best). Cumshots patch of clover mixture. Clovers and grasses turn brown, but the fertilizer will return the grass. Crabgrass This narrow signal cut and poor ventilation. Improve your soil to get rid of crabgrass and throwing arm. Creeping Charlie Creeping Charlie is particularly fond of shady areas. For disposal, drainage increases aeration, de-thatched and add compost detection. Allow the soil in the affected areas between waterings. Dandelion Dandelions attract parasitic wasps, which helps to keep the caterpillars, worms and fly earwig population. You can control dandelions by pulling her arm to check the pH of the soil and lawn before the dandelions go down. Thistle Cardo has deep roots, which can not be easily destroyed. It should be fully excavated and any small pieces left in the soil will grow again. Fill the holes with topsoil and sprinkle with the chaff. For more articles like this, please visit: GreenTerraFirma

Bruce Knight contributing writer for GreenTerraFirma with years of experience in the field of conservation, solar and wind systems.
 
 

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